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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.